Cycling Tour Brittany, France

As mentioned in earlier blogs, as travelling Australians, we tend to plan multiple experiences for each of our long-haul travels to Europe. Earlier on this trip, we had once again visited the Czech Republic, with some time in Plzen and Prague after flying into Munich. We then travelled by train to the small southern German town of Sonthofen in the Bavarian Alps in Germany spending several days with friends including a cycle in the Bavarian Alps. Following this we met up with fellow Aussie friends to ride for 7 days in Switzerland. Some more trains and buses and we were through Switzerland, into Italy, across France and found ourselves in the lovely city of Quimper where we stayed for 13 nights.

Quimper is situated on the Odet River in the French Department of Finistère in western Brittany.

Closely connected to the coast with the estuary where the Odet and Steir rivers join. Remarkable features are the brightly coloured flowery passerelles (walkways) crossing the river in multiple places (once connecting the private houses), the Saint-Corentin cathedral, cobbled streets and alleyways, half timbered buildings and a fabulous fresh produce market we frequented.

Having arrived by train and taking a taxi to our lodgings at #3 rue de l’Iroise. We were met by our hostess Mdme Anne-Marie Denniel who gave us a guided tour (in French) of her lovely 3 storey, 4-bedroom home with garden, that was to be ours for the next fortnight. We were located on a high point in the town which would test us everyday when we decided to explore on our bikes. We soon discovered the nearby boulangerie, our nearest small supermarket, the rubbish drop-off point we were instructed to use and the various routes we could take into the old part of the town.

Our home for the next 14 days - bliss	Streets of Quimper

Having arrived on a Saturday afternoon we discovered not much was open on Sunday and it was also a Monday public holiday. With friends from home arriving on Sunday to spend a couple of days with us – it was basic fare of bread, sardines, salad and cheese until we could get to the markets and stock up on supplies.  When not exploring on our bikes we continued to explore on foot and kept on discovering special places that you only find when you spend a bit more time in a location.

As Colin and Nita had a hire car, we spent the first few days exploring by car and walking the city of Quimper. Out to the coast at Pont Croix, Beuzec-Cap-Sizun, cliffs at Kergulan, Pointe du Van looking across to Pointe du Raz, and between the two the surf beach at Baie de Trépassés, Penmarc’h, the port town of Concarneau. Rugged coastlines, windmills, lighthouses, fishing harbours and boats, food markets. Saint-Corentin cathedral, the Museum of Brittany, wandering the delightful streets of Quimper.

We found these 'sardine men' in a number of the coastal towns.

With Colin & Nita moving on, it was time to pick up our hire bikes for the next few days of exploring.  We appeared to have booked the only 2 bikes available in Quimper. They didn’t look promising, but we had no choice. Greg managed to do some minor adjustments prior to our first outing. We would have to make do and put up with them for our 6 days of riding.

Cycling Day 1 Quimper to Locronan and return. 40km. 

Our first excursion didn’t start too well, missing the cycle route out of town, we ended up on a muddy mountain bike track, that seemed to be diminishing in size, that took us through bush, against brambles and through a swamp, but finally we emerged onto the correct road. An inborn sense of direction eventually took us to the place we were meant to be. Our first day of exploring took us through Guengat to the historic town of Locronan. Part of the select clubs of “Small Towns of Character” and “Most beautiful villages of France” and hence a rather touristy French village. Cars are kept out of this historic centre and the mainly touristy shops are identified with traditional door signs. Elegant granite buildings surround the cobbled square with its central well. The Saint-Roan church in the heart of the town, from which narrowing cobbled streets lead off to expose more charming buildings with dormer windows peaking from the slate rooves. Flowers cascade from stone walls adding colour and warmth to the grey buildings. Known for its history of weaving sailcloth – a fascinating visit to the resident weaver who was showcasing his craft. Another discovery was the traditional Kouign-Amann specialty cake. We soon found them in Quimper on our return.

Finding our way to Guengat and Locronan

Our return trip followed the Greenway cycle route (voies vertes) along the old arterial railway line. This was a shaded green archway with signs of the old railway stations along the way.

Cycling Day 2 Quimper to Pont l’Abbé and return. 65km. 

The next day we cycled south to the coast along the bike track to Plomeur and Le Guilvinec. Watching on the quay as the fishing boats returned with their catch and unloaded.  A tour of the fish markets at Haliotike – La Cite de la Peche – The City of Fisheries – showed us the process from unloading the catch, sorting, sale by auction and outward shipment to buyers and restaurants.

Then via Plobannalec-Lesconil to Pont l’Abbé. Another coastal harbour town with its own castle. After walking the harbourside it was time to head for home along the cycle greenway which was like a cool green tunnel.

Fishing port and market at le Guilvinec

The cool green tunnel

We needed a rest day from our not so comfortable bikes. So, it was take advantage of the Saturday markets and soak up some sunshine in our back yard with deck chairs on the lawn, some reading material and I’m sure there was a glass of wine involved. Bliss.

Cycling Day 3 Quimper to Bénodet and return. 50km. 

As it was a Sunday we decided to head to the coast. Cycling from Quimper to Sainte Marine, along the coast to the Pointe de Combrit with its Napoleonic Fort & Lighthouse – the old fortifications watching over the western entrance to the Odet River. Then a rather high and long Pont de Cornouaille to cross the wide Odet River (estuary entrance) to Bénodet. The estuary providing a safe haven to many yachts. Following the estuary along the Quai du Commandant l’Herminier we found ourselves at the main Bénodet Beach.

Saint Marine Pointe de Combrit light house

Odet River at Bénodet as we cross the bridge

In the background the high Pont de Cornouaille crossing Odet River

Here we discovered we had arrived in time, not only for lunch, but for the start of the annual Odet Ascent – all combinations of kayaks and canoes, many of the paddlers in fancy costumes with flags flying, paddling the river back to Quimper. Such a festive occasion with lots of activities happening around the town. We had heard this was the place to have moules-frites (mussels and chips) with a plate of sardines for lunch, so taking a table at Le Transat Restaurant and Lounge Bar, with a view over the activities on the river, we had a delightful meal of the local catch.

Event day - paddlers take to the Odet while we enjoy the best of local.

The beach was begging for us to jump in and swim, we obliged. Turning to the sound of bagpipes and pipes we watched as a parade of locals dressed in traditional Breton costumes promenaded along the beach promenade. The women and girls showing off their lace bonnets and collars with their pinafore dresses and aprons. The men wearing white shirts, dark trousers and some with embroidered vests, provided the music for the procession. Like pied pipers, they gathered a following and led us to a large, shaded parking space, with festive stalls surrounding the area. As we entered a parade of vintage vehicles began to pull into the space and park so they could be admired and inspected by all. Old Citroëns, Renaults and Fiats and goodness know what else.

Taking the backroads on our return via Gouesnac’h we discovered we were in cider making territory and made a stop for some cidre tasting. Visiting Les Verges de Kermao, a 5^th generation family-owned farm and cider house, we were not only treated to a range of traditional ciders but also were shown the process. On our return to Quimper, we certainly made some cidre purchases to taste more of the local produce.

Cycling Day 4 Quimper to Douarnenez and return. 54km. 

Today we decided to explore to the Northwest of Quimper and take the green way to Douarnenez. A lovely coastal town located at the mouth of the Pouldavid River. With four harbours, this provided many quaysides for us to explore, with lots of narrow streets and interesting buildings, once supporting a thriving sardine industry.

Around the coast, small, sheltered beaches are interspersed with the harbours and river outlet. We explored the Port du Rosmeur and around to Plage des Dames. The tide allowed us to walk the causeway out to Ile Tristan with interesting gardens and buidlings. Located in the river mouth, Port Rhu showcasing some old shipping vessels moored at the dock and a shipping graveyard on the far side.

On our return ride we detoured off the Greenway to Le Juc’h and Guengat on the high road, overlooking the farmlands before re-joining the Greenway back into Quimper.

Cycling Day 5 Quimper City and surrounds. 17km. 

Today we spent time to explore Quimper on our bikes with a ride out to Armor-Lux factory outlet and production workshops. Armor-Lux produced the classic sailor top – striped in blue, red or black with white, which has since become an emblem of Brittany. Thank goodness we were on bikes – our shopping was limited. Our return was more exploring through the city streets on our way home.

Cycling Day 6 Quimper to Stangala Valley and return. 18km. 

Another direction today with a ride northeast to the woods of the Stangala Valley – a nature reserve and wildlife park on the outskirts of Quimper with the Odet River flowing through. The narrow roads took us through an enchanted forest, soft under wheel with moss covered rocks and tree trunks, overhanding trees creating a cool, shady tunnel. I must admit a slight lack of concentration on a large roundabout on the return journey caused some anxious moments, but we came through unscathed.

The next day we returned our bikes. Our journey in Brittany concluded with a day trip by train to Lorient, and a ferry ride to Port Louis. The following day we were on the train to Paris for a few days before our return home after an action-packed tour of parts of Europe, having cycled in 5 countries.  

The things that come to mind after our time in Brittany: rugged, wild coastlines, proud and strong traditions, history, old villages and churches, Breton language still used on signs, traditions of weaving, linen, hemp, embroidery, lace. Farmlands and cider apples, Cidre in cidre bowls, fresh sardines and langoustines. Tidal estuaries, seaweed, Odet River, safe harbours, fishing boats, lighthouses, large and noisy seagulls, flowers tumbling out of rock walls, windmills, Breton biscuits, Kouign-Amann specialty cake, heavenly crêpes topped with salted butter caramel, savoury Galettes.

We loved our time in Quimper and surrounds. Spending the extra time in one place certainly helps to discover and understand more of the area.
A total of 241km over these 6 cycing days. The map below shows the loops we completed from our base at Quimper. 

Recommended reading (if you can read French): “Le Cheval d’orgueil” by Pierre Pierre-Jakez Hélias (The Pride Horse) about everyday life of a peasant family in Brittany. Written in Breton and translated into French.

Our inspiration: These early cycling tours we did in Europe, inspired us to develop Connal Kit range of cycling clothing that is fit for purpose for this kind of bike touring. It is just so much fun and we didn't really want to appear in lycra when we were having our lunch of moules-frites, or tasting cider, or touring the fish markets. Hence our range of Go Explore cycling clothes.

...Jen & Greg